Hello! I’m Karina Formanova. Welcome to Evrazhka Studio. In this video I continue to work with my texture sheets and want to show you a mix of two techniques — Sutton Slice and «gel filling». I wanted to show it to you for a long time, and finally I’m holding appropriate textures. I have told you about them, how to use them, and how to treat it in a previous video. The link is below. You should take a look if you haven’t seen it. This time we will work with the texture #3, but #1 and #2 are perfect too. In fact, you can use any texture with a not very dense pattern. «G. F. Art Tools» manufactures all five textures by my original drawings. Also they still have a lot of cool texture sheets by drawings of artist Irina Tokmakova. Not to speak of awesome cutters! Highly recommend a look to visit them. All links are in the description below. Let’s, get to work. Full list of all necessary materials and tools is in the description below. As I said, we need a texture with a not very dense pattern for this technique. If convex elements are located too close to each other, then this effect will be gone. Also it is very important for clay to easily separate from the texture later on. Therefore, I suggest to take a silicone spray as a separator in this case. Spray it on the texture and blot it with a napkin. Choose a place with the most appropriate pattern. Knead dark brown clay and make a layer. Press it into the texture. Add more pieces if necessary. Then cut upper layers with a thin sharp blade. Don’t hurry and make it gradually, in thin slices. Otherwise there is a great risk to accidentally damage the texture. We need to cut clay so that it remains only in recesses. It should not stay on convex parts. Accuracy of the entire work will depend on it. If small items fall out, then just re-fill this place with a small piece of clay and cut the excess. Postpone the texture for now and roll out a clay layer with a thickness of about 1.5 mm. Cut out the shape with a cutter. Put a metal leaf piece. Make cracks. You can stretch the layer with your hands, or can roll it through a pasta machine. I stretch it in my hands. Then put it on a tile which you will bake. Put it smoothly, without air bubbles. Now we take our texture and put it on the layer with the metal leaf. Roll it with a roller make clay from the texture bond well to the metal leaf. As I said before, at this stage it is very important for clay to easily unstick from the texture sheet. It is not critical for classic Sutton Slice, because clay adheres well to clay. But clay attaches to a metal leaf not so willingly. But all separate very easily thanks to use of silicon spray. Now cut out the desired shape with a cutter. Remove excess clay and clean up the edge with a knife. Now cut out the desired shape with a cutter. Remove excess clay and clean up the edge with a knife. Its length should be slightly larger than the circumference of the oval, and its thickness should be about 2-3 mm. Cut out a thin strip with a ruler. Wrap it around the main element. The rim should fit snugly to the detail and to the tile, with no gaps. Cut a strip joint to joint. Smooth the seam gently with a silicone spatula. Bake it for 15 minutes. After cooling, color cells with a colored liquid clay. You can see what and how to stain liquid clay in my separate video. The link is in the description below. Those who follow my tutorials are already familiar with this process. I often use colored liquid clay in the work. One color is enough for small cells, and it is possible to make smooth transitions in large cells. Slightly mix colors together to make boundaries of colors smooth. Small dots and stripes can easily be removed from the metal leaf, so be especially careful painting over these places. I missed the small cell during filling, but noticed it only in the final. Although the work is not spoiled. Now bake the item for 15 minutes. While it is baking, prepare wire elements. You can take it from ordinary cable. We need quite thick copper wire for this work. I have a diameter of 1.5 mm. I don’t advise to take a wire thinner than 1 mm. It will not have sufficient rigidity. Cut it into pieces of length 7 — 10 cm. We need at least 4 pieces. Align them slightly and bend them in the middle at right angles. We need a gas burner to form the balls. If you don’t have it, the same can be done on a gas stove. Or even skip this step. Later I will tell you what items you can make instead of it. And please do not forget about safety. Open flame of burner it is not a miserable 110 degrees in the oven. Please be careful! And so, take the wire with tweezers and hold the tip at the end of the flame, and heat it until copper begins to melt and there will be a ball. It is important to capture the moment when the ball has become round, but not too large. Toss the wire into water, so it cools faster. Make balls on both sides. Wire have black soot after annealing. We need water and usual citric acid to remove it. Pour some acid and put wires. Leave it for some time to soot came down. I usually leave it for the night. Copper have become pure pink. Divide the wire in half. Make a few bends with the pliers. Wire became soft and easily bent after annealing. In order to give stiffness to wire and to make element more interesting, beat wire with a flat side of a hammer. I have a small bench block. You can also use an anvil or, for example, the flat side of another hammer. You can use any stiff flat metal surface. Beat slowly and carefully across the surface of the bent portion. Do not touch the straight end yet. Repeat with all items. If you are not able to make balls, you can just bite off a wire with a desired length and make a neat tip with a needle file. Bend the wire in several places, leaving the end free. And just beat it with a hammer, carefully beating the wire end. It will become more wide and flat. Such elements also will look very good in our jewelry. Now we need to put all elements in a correct order. For convenience, I have circled the pendant outline on a paper sheet and use it as a guidance. At this stage the most important thing is to consider length of each element. Mark the desired length with a marker. Take the central element and bite off excess wire, leaving about 1 cm from the mark. Bend a loop with pliers. Beat it with a hammer so it will become hard and flat. Lubricate the loop with super glue and glue the item into its place. Make the same with all elements. Roll out a clay layer with a thickness of about 1.5 mm. Grease the reverse side with liquid clay, including between the loops. Close the side by the layer and put it on a sheet of paper. Press it carefully that clay is well distributed between metal elements and the surface became smooth. Cut clay along the contour. Remove remaining liquid clay. Cut the contour at an angle. Smooth the surface with your fingers. Apply texture in any convenient way. You can use a toothbrush, a stiff brush, a sponge, or fine texture, like me. I have a silicone mold from a wooden board. Finalize it with a needle in places where the texture has not squeezed. Put a personal stamp if you want. In this pendant I will make a traditional mount. Roll out a small layer of clay with a thickness of about 1.5 mm. Cut off one side and wrap it around the rod with a diameter of 3-4 mm. Smooth the joint. Cut the desired length. Apply a thin strip of liquid clay and put the mount into place. Bake the pendant for 30 minutes. Take out the rod after cooling. If you want a pendant to be accurate and the resin lens form to be perfectly flat grind the sides. Firstly I grind with sandpaper #600, then #800, #1000 and #1500. Sand the mount with very fine sandpaper only. You can grind metal elements with it too. Rub ends and the mount with clean dry cloth to make them slightly shiny. Mix epoxy resin. The proportions for mixing and time for curing are in the instruction for your resin. Follow it clearly. Mix it thoroughly and leave the resin to obtain a required density. For convenience, I cut a hole in a styrofoam piece for the mount. So the pendant will lie perfectly straight. Fill the lens. If you wish, you can drop a resin drop on each end of wires. You will get a very interesting effect. Cover the pendant from dust and leave it to fully cure. We need a memory wire for assembling the pendant, slightly more than one loop. And hollow rubber cord. Thread the wire in the cord. Put on a black bead. Bend 7 mm wire at a right angle with pliers. Make a loop. This wire is quite stiff, but with repeated flexion — extension may even break down. So make it right the first time. Now find the second wire end and cut excess cord. Put on the pendant. Thread a bead and bend another loop similarly. Hang a clasp. I made this hook and a ring of the same copper wire. If you wonder how to make it, let me know in the comments below and I will make a separate tutorial. Ends of the necklace are close to each other in a free state, and clasp unhooks easily. However, clasp straightens when worn under the weight of the necklace and holds up very well. Well, our necklace is ready. Necklace is very stylish and quite large. It is the perfect addition to an open neckline of your dress. It glows in the sun beautifully, and small resin drops give an interesting effect. In addition, they are very pleasant to the touch. Perhaps the only thing that bothers me is the wire color at the necklace base. It is silver, but everything else is copper color. It’s not a very efficient solution, but, unfortunately, I didn’t have the basics of a different color. I remind you that all my textures you can buy in G.F.Art Tools store. Links are in the description below. If you liked this tutorial, share it with your friends. And subscribe to the channel — there is a lot more ahead. And if you want to support the channel financially, you can become my patron. You’ll have access to new videos and my advice. Details are in the description below. You can buy my jewelry in Vkontakte group. And I will say goodbye and wait for your comments. Thank you all for watching and bye!